Hello Again!

Hello!

We know it’s been a while since our last update, so we thought we’d give you a peek into what’s been happening behind the scenes here since last October.

In January, mom (otherwise known as Joanmarie) began her year-long professional dyer’s intensive with AppleOak Fibreworks. Meeting twice a month, the intensive has allowed us to greatly expand our color range and capabilities. We are so excited to bring these new hues to you in the upcoming fall season and beyond.

I (Sami) have completed the first of four modules for the Royal School of Needlework’s certificate in hand embroidery program. While you won’t see my piece at any of our shows, you’ll find a greater variety of hand embroidered goodies, including pins and patches, in addition to our bags.

We are also now proud members of the Hudson Valley Textile Project and the Rust Belt Fibershed, a “collaborative network of regenerative fiber farmers, processors, and designers from the Rust Belt Region” who “explore the possibilities of working with the resources in our fibershed.” This membership offers us a unique opportunity to source goods locally from within the fibershed and incorporate them into our work. To that end, we are thrilled to announce that the linen and cotton-linen in our bags is now sourced from Tuscarora Mills in Bedford, Pennsylvania. The team at Tuscarora actively sources US-grown fiber when possible along with high-quality wet-spun Belgian linen. These fibers are then woven on a variety of antique looms in southern Pennsylvania. We are also actively working to source our bag webbing from Tuscarora as well, showcasing the full talents present here in the Rust Belt.

Further afield, we continue to source the wool in our bags from Ireland and Scotland, as well as our waxed canvas.

Otherwise, we’ve been managing the various health crises of our shop assistants (read: cats) and continue to work on delivering the versatile and unique project bags to you.

Dollars and Sense: Or, Understanding the Math Behind Our Bags

If you’re a regular attendee of fiber shows, you might have noticed that our bags run on the higher end, especially compared with those made from commercially-printed fabrics. Today, we thought we’d take you behind the scenes to shed a little light on why that is.

About four years ago, we decided to reduce our use of commercially-dyed and printed fabrics. Chiefly, we had released that we were tired of seeing the same fabrics across multiple booths (including ours!) and wanted to commit to building a more “one-of-a-kind” brand. As such, most of the fabric we use is linen that we have dyed ourselves using a natural process in which plants, invertebrates, and minerals are the coloring agents. Linen is (technically!) vegetable-derived, crafted from the cellulose fibers that grow inside of the stalks of the flax plant. It requires less water to grow than cotton and every part of the plant is useable.  Our linen is grown and processed in Eastern Europe and is OEKO-Tex certified, meaning that the linen has been tested for over 100 harmful toxins and chemicals.  When selecting commercially-printed fabric to use as contrast in our bags, this certification is also a consideration.

On the surface, dyeing with natural dyes and synthetic dyes is rather similar: prepare the fabric, put the fabric in a pot filled with water and dye, heat it, let it simmer and then let it cool before washing off any excess dye material and hanging the fabric to dry.

The difference  is in the detail and the impact upon environment.

Synthetic dyes are ready to use right out of the package and don’t require any additional pre-processing work.

By contrast, pre-processing of natural dyes is a source of endless debate and variation. Typically, we usually need to heat the dyestuff in advance in order to first create a saturated dye bath.  Depending upon the dye material used, the amount of time needed to extract the dye can vary from a few hours to almost a week.

Natural dyes also require a mordant and tannin to ensure sufficient colorfastness.   A mordant is used to set dyes on fabrics.  Tannins are used to assist the mordanting of cellulose fabrics, which tend to take dye less readily than their protein-based counterparts like wool or silk.

Synthetic dyes generally require a short amount of heating time to bond to the fabric.  With natural dyes, this process can take considerably longer, as after heating the dye bath, the fabric must then sit in the bath to cool off. Oftentimes, we allow the fabric to remain in the bath overnight to allow for more of the color to be absorbed.

Synthetic dyes create a strong bond with the fabric and leave little excess dye in the bath; washing the fabric after the dye process and hanging it up to dry is therefore a quick process.  By contrast, natural dyes generally leave quite a bit of color in the dye bath and the excess dye is rinsed out during the washing process.  Naturally-dyed material needs to be rinsed until the water runs clear. We then let our fabric dry and then repeat again in about a week.  A fast process natural dyeing is not!

Due to the labor involved in raising and harvesting natural dyestuff, the cost of natural dye materials is significantly more expensive than reactive procyon dye.  One pound of Indian madder, for example, is $21.95, while a pound of  red fiber reactive procyon dye is about $8.30.  In order to obtain the most vibrant color, we dye at 100% weight of fiber; this means that for each gram of fabric, we use one gram of dyestuff.  Our 180 gram expandable totes therefore require 180 grams of dye material. Each of our expandable totes has a weight of about 180 grams or about .4 lbs, meaning that each takes about $8.78 to dye. With the added cost of the tannin and mordant, the total comes to approximately $10 per bag.

Reactive procyon dyeing does not require the same amount of dyestuff to produce lasting color. According to Dharma Trading, in order to dye one pound of fabric with Pagoda Red, we would need 0.64 ounces of dyestuff. For our approximately 0.4lb bag, we would need about 0.26 ounces of dyestuff. If we used the reactive procyon dye, it would cost about $2.16 to dye the same bag.

Over 90% of the interfacing we use is traditionally-made buckram, with only our yarn boxes and bento boxes favoring commercial interfacings — though we are looking to reduce that number even further by instead quilting the boxes for strength and stability! This will give us the same control over the structure, but without the need to use commercial interfacing.

The waxed canvas we use in our totes comes from Halley Stevensons in Scotland. Halley Stevensons has over 150 years of experience in producing beautiful, durably, and long-lasting waxed canvas. Halley Stevensons’ process results in wax that can adjust to ambient temperature to become softer and more breathable in warmer weather, or stiffer and more windproof in the cold. The material can be maintained with additional coats of wax, helping to keep it soft, supple and weather-resistant. 

Even more importantly, Halley Stevensons waxed canvas carries a Bluesign, which certifies that the products used are harmless to the human environment. All of this, however, means that the cost can be almost double that of other commercially produced waxed canvas.

Each of our linen bags is hand embroidered or hand appliquéd.  The embellishments use vintage buttons, lace, and wool, not synthetic felt.  Each hand-embroidered bag is unique and uses traditional handwork stitches and variations on historical needlework patterns.  While we love this process, it is one of the most time-consuming outside of dyeing as a single bag can take at least five hours to complete.

Because our price tends to run higher than average, we are committed to creating bags that are of the highest versatility and quality, allowing you to buy less by investing once.

A Bag's Journey

This entry originally appeared as an email newsletter in July 2022.

With any luck, this newsletter finds you enjoying the summer! Our dyeing forecast here in Central PA has been decidedly mixed; some days, it’s dry, warm, and beautiful — absolutely perfect for dyeing and drying outside! Others, it’s been overcast, humid, and unpredictably wet. Yuck!

The extra dye space has given us the ability to experiment with new materials and processes, including new tannins, different dyebath recipes, and overdyeing — all in trying to answer the question “So, how many colors can you get from natural dyes?” Playing with recipes, exhausting baths, swapping tannins, tweaking the PH, and overdyeing have really expanded our color range. Thought Tums were just for indigestion? Turns out they’re also the secret to unlocking some really vibrant colors, too!


Each of the finished bags you see at a show or on the website starts with an individually dyed piece of linen. While you may have seen reels of makers cutting yards of beautiful fabric, our process is much smaller. Because everything is hand-dyed, it’s imperative that we take into consideration the character of each individual piece, including how best to work in the inevitable variations that occur. Once we know what bag each piece will become, we back it with dressmaker’s weight interfacing to help provide shape, structure, and body.


We then cut the bag, choosing which areas to highlight, and find the right contrast print to bring out the natural variations endemic to the dye process. We’ll then select the contrast fabric and begin thinking about the embroidery work. Like our linen, our floss is also hand-dyed in small batches; we rely on recycled cupro cotton dyed by TurtleMade and botanically-dyed six-strand floss dyed by Stuart Moore Textiles. More often than not, we combine both for a unique visual texture, choosing stitches that highlight the beauty of the floss. 
Once the embroidery is complete, a bag can (finally!) be assembled.

So, how long does it take to make a Good Water and Co. bag or tote? Well, it varies. Depending upon the color we’re going for, the dye process can take anywhere from three days to a week. The embroidery, depending upon the design, can take anywhere from eight to twenty hours, usually spread across several days. Add on a few hours for sewing at the end and you truly see the slow in slow fashion.

Looking Back Toward The Future

This post was originally published as an email newsletter in March 2022.

Are you a fan of vintage magazines?  We are too.  Needlecraft Magazine is one of our favorites. Maybe you have never heard of it —- well, neither had we until about a year ago! Someone on Facebook Marketplace was giving them away.  Always enjoying an adventure, we hopped in the car and met a young woman in the parking lot of  a Sheetz station who had a box of them.  They had belonged to a relative who had passed away and were found when they were cleaning out her house.  No one wanted them but she thought it a shame to just throw them away.  We were hooked!  The closest equivalent today might be PieceWork. We were hooked and always on the low out for issues that are not in our collection. 

The magazines are a wealth of information and inspiration.  Each issue is filled with articles and patterns about everything needlework:  knitting, crochet, lace-making, embroidery and dressmaking.  In addition, it offers recipes and what was once referred to as “home economic” topics. We may not want to embroider a luncheon set of linens, but the patterns would look great on some of our linen bags.

The first magazine was published in Augusta, Maine  — I am sure you did not know that for a time Augusta was considered the mail-order magazine publishing capital of the country!  The magazine was first published in 1910 and ceased publication in 1940.

We were recently going through the February 1929 issue and came across this article entitled Pockets for Pennies by Lillian H. Locke, A.M who was an instructor in Household Arts, Teacher’s College Columbia University.  Although she was talking about women’s clothing,  her observation holds true for almost anything fiber related that you want to last: “The first secret on the road to success lies in the intelligent selection of the materials used, and that in turn depends upon the purpose for which it is to be used. Sturdy materials are essential for everyday use “ Just like the  the trouble with cheap and ready made clothing comes from cheaper fabric the same is true with project totes! An investment in the fabric at the onset saves money in the long run.  

Did you ever notice how some fabrics get fuzzy bumps? When fabric fibers become loose, they will move around when we  brush up against them. The friction from rubbing up against the fabric causes loose fibers to twist together into small balls. You see it often in fabrics that are a cotton and poly blend.  Linen, on the other other hand, has a smooth, lint-free surface.  Linen is more resistant than cotton —- and generally more costly.  Because of the weave, linen is a wonderful blank canvas upon which to embroider.  You might notice that many of our newer designs are all hand-embroidered.  The embroidery design that we choose can make a bag made in the dye bath with the same pattern look completely different.  Over the next few months we will be exploring combining some of the old patterns from Needlecraft Magazine with our work in dyeing, stamping, and weaving.

Our Dye Process

This entry was originally published as an email newsletter in January 2022.

2020 forced us like so many others, to slow down and re-evaluate our relationship with our work and materials. Much as we missed shows and seeing everyone's faces, it was a pause that allowed us to take Good Water & Co. in a radically new direction.

Our dye process was born of theory and practice and a lot of help. While we curated an extensive reference library, we were also busy in our kitchen laboratory. In developing a process that worked for us, we focused on creating beautiful color without harsh ingredients.

The first lesson we learned was the importance of scouring. Even the softest, whitest linen has been treated with starch and other additives that must be removed before dyeing. We typically scour our fabric with soda ash and a PH-balanced laundry detergent twice to ensure we've cleaned the fabric as well as we can.

Next, we submerge the fabric to be dyed into a wheat bran bath for twenty-four hours. This helps to ensure any remaining starch is removed.

Once we've gotten the fabric's surface prepared, we apply a tannin. Often, we use a colorless tannin powder to avoid impacting the dye color. Again, the fabric sits in the bath for about twenty-four hours.

After tannin has been applied, we then create a mordant bath. Typically, we mordant with either our homemade soy milk or a combination of food-grade alum and soda ash. Much like with the tannin, we leave the fabric in the mordant bath for twenty-four hours (can you sense a theme yet?). 

Finally, we're ready to dye! We'll typically use a dye bath two to three times with each dip lasting (yes, you guessed it) twenty-four hours. After, we'll rinse the material until the water runs clean, then hang it to dry.

This slow process allows to use choose safe, eco-friendly materials and to simply dump our remaining dye pot into the garden at the end of the process.

Keep an eye out for more of our dyed linen and let us know what kinds of colors YOU want to see!